Product Care

Oak Furniture Care

Oak is a natural product created by Mother Nature herself. As the oak tree takes many hundreds of years to reach maturity, various changes will take place within the tree itself - this is mainly due to the seasonal weather patterns and the different types of soil that the trees grow in. Our finished product will display natural variations in colour and texture. These variations will add to the character of every item of furniture. In years to come the colour will mellow and produce a patina through regular waxing and polishing.

Our oak tables, chairs, wardrobes, and coffee tables are mainly treated with lacquers and should not require further treatment other than a wipe down with a damp cloth. However from time to time a buff with a spray polish will enhance the shine. Some of our bespoke finishes are wax. In this case the finish can be further enhanced by re-applying a wax polish such as Fiddes Supreme. Apply to surfaces with a cloth or brush; allow to dry for 20 minutes, then buff up with a clean cotton cloth. This process should be repeated several times throughout the early years to obtain the patina required, then thereafter at least every six months, or when required, depending upon the amount of usage the item is likely to receive. To remove water and heat marks, rub them the way of the grain. Fine dry steel wool grade 000 or very fine sandpaper 180 grit can usually remove them. The oak should then be re-polished with Fiddes Supreme wax in the required shade.

Leather

Leather that is looked after properly should keep its looks and last for some considerable time. It is important to bear in mind that leather is a natural material and reacts in a similar fashion to human skin. It is essential for good maintenance to keep it clean using only natural materials. Some chemical derived cleaners, whilst not harming the leather, may cause the protective finish applied to the surface of most leather to develop poor wearing qualities.

Simple washing with a non-alkaline soap and water solution is the most effective method. It is most important not to flood the leather. Light colours will obviously show dirt more readily, but it is advisable to wash all colours on a regular basis according to use. Occasional applications of a hide food are recommended, about two or three times a year. It is important when cleaning your leather upholstery to make certain that any liquid cleaner or hide food does not come into contact with the oak work, this may damage the wax finish that the oak has been treated with. For Natural Leather we recommend the use of a hide food and Black Bison Fine Clear Paste Wax.

Rug Care

With proper regular care, you can add years of life to your rug and help to retain its original appearance. The most important thing you can do is to vacuum thoroughly and frequently, particularly in high traffic areas and to regularly rotate your rug to ensure even wear.

Cleaning

Vacuuming helps remove dirt particles which abrade rugs and carpet and dull their appearance. "Soiling" is a build-up of soil particles and oily materials that cling to the rug and carpet fibers and dull their beauty. In time, foot traffic drives the soil particles deep into the carpet. When this condition cannot be corrected with vacuuming, it's time to have your carpet cleaned by a trained professional.

How often you'll need professional cleaning depends on soil build-up, traffic, type and colour of carpeting. A good rule of thumb would be to professionally clean your rug or carpet every 18 months.

A reputable professional cleaner knows the latest in carpet construction, chemicals, and safe, effective cleaning methods to help maintain carpet beauty.

Most professionals use hot water extraction cleaning (also known as steam cleaning). Other common cleaning methods include absorbent pad cleaning, rotary shampoo, and dry foam or powder.

Do-It-Yourself Cleaning

Professional cleaning is recommended for any rug or carpet, including stain-resistant carpet. However, if you decide to do it yourself, carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions. Most dry cleaning systems are satisfactory and will not affect the warranty. If other methods are used, avoid cationic or high pH (>10) chemicals which can impair stain resistance. Avoid excessive abrasive action to prevent damage to the carpet tufts.

Spot Cleaning

Basic cleaning steps for common food and beverage stains are as follows:

• Immediately scoop up as much of the spill as possible. Then blot, do not rub, with clean, white absorbent cloth or paper towels to remove excess moisture. Use a wet/dry vacuum if spill is large.
• Douse stain with warm, not hot, water and blot with clean, white cloth or paper towels. Press down firmly to remove as much moisture as possible. Repeat until no stain is evident on cloth or towels.
• If stain remains on carpet, make a solution of warm water and mild non-bleach liquid laundry, not dishwashing detergent (2 teaspoons to ½ pint water). Apply enough solution to cover stain and let soak for about 5 minutes.
• Rinse with warm water and blot thoroughly to extract water. Repeat until all detergent is removed.
• Absorb remaining moisture with layers of white paper towels, weighted down overnight with non-staining glass or ceramic object.
• When completely dry, vacuum or brush the pile to restore texture.
• Ghost Stain: After drying, if the stain reappears, it may be because some stain remained deep in the pile and wicked up to the surface. If so, reapply warm water detergent solution, vacuum or brush when completely dry.

Teak Care

Teak is the most weather resistant wood in the world. Historically, shipbuilders have used teak due to its high oil content which resists rotting and insects. No other wood is comparable. You have the luxury of choosing how you would like your teak to age.

You have two options:

The Weathered Look

If you prefer a weathered, silver-gray look, then do nothing. Over time, weather will cause some surface erosion leading to slight surface roughness, possible mildew and checking. Checking is a natural process that occurs when teak develops small cracks in the end grain of the furniture. A check is small and caused by teak continuing to age, weather and dry. Checking does not affect the integrity of teak furniture and will virtually disappear over time. The appeal of a weathered look is just that - a weathered look.

If you simply allow your furniture to weather naturally this way, you can maintain the silver patina with regular, gentle cleaning with soft-soap flakes dissolved in warm water (not detergent). However, if a regular cleaning regime is neglected, furniture can become badly weathered (gray-black in color) or extremely dirty, in which case you can use a cleaner and brightener product designed to help restore the surface color of the teak.

Looking Like New

If you prefer to retain the natural, golden color of new teak, then we recommend that you seal your furniture with a teak sealer. Manufacturers differ in their recommendations between a teak oil and a water-based product. A sealer helps to resist normal weathering and mildew growth. Checking will still occur. Previously sealed teak should be resealed to compensate for traffic and environmental wear and tear. You will be the best judge as to when your furniture needs to be resealed. Typically once a year is sufficient for residential use.

Restoring Teak Furniture

If your furniture is weathered and you have changed your mind, you may restore your weathered furniture back to the golden color of new teak by applying a recommended teak cleaner and brightener.

Pot Care

All our pots are frost resistant - but by the very nature of the raw material (clay), terracotta is not entirely frost proof. However these simple tips will maximise your enjoyment and should ensure that your pots last for many years.

Frost damage can occur if pots are allowed to become waterlogged, due to bad drainage. When the earth becomes deeply frozen it will expand, and cause stress to the terracotta, which can break and crack the pots.

To minimize this we strongly advise you use bubble wrap or thin foam sheeting to line the interior of the pots before planting with earth or compost.

Avoid wintering your pots in particularly exposed places. We recommend that if you are at risk, you should remove your pots to a frost-free area or wrap securely with bubble wrap for extra protection.

Good drainage is essential if planted up with shrubs and perennial planting. The drainage hole must be kept clear by placing pebbles or slate pieces over the hole before earth is put into the pot.

To assist drainage it is a good idea to keep your pot slightly raised off the ground. Four equally sized pieces of wood (about 1cm-2cm thick) placed in a square under the pot will be sufficient to allow free drainage and prevent excess water collection.

Natural salts within the terracotta clay may gradually seep through the glaze and exterior surface creating a whitish dust finish. This is quite normal and all terracotta must "breathe". If undesired you can simply wash away the salts or allow the rain to do the job!

Always lift the heavy pots carefully, and do not roll them on their feet which can cause damage to the rims and put extra weight on them. Use a trolley or carefully place in a large wheelbarrow, protected with a blanket when moving around the garden.